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Step Into History at Pier 45 in San Francisco

By Alexa Chipman May 25, 2017

On a secluded pier, hidden from the bustle of Pier 39, is a colorful banner indicating “Historic Pier 45” arched across an entrance next to the Musee Mecanique. Behind its cheerful red and blue is a miniature World War II maritime museum, with the liberty ship SS Jeremiah O’Brien and submarine USS Pampanito (SS-383), both primarily independently operated and open for tours with a small fee.

USS Pampanito

USS Pampanito in San Francisco

Built for long-range patrols on the hunt for enemy shipping, Pampanito is a sleek, dangerous boat with the most advanced technology of her time on board—volunteers have scoured the world in an attempt to bring her as close to original specifications as possible, and their attention to detail shows. Forerunners of modern computing are on board—the cypher machine to send and receive encrypted messages, and the Torpedo Data Computer (TDC), which assisted with the complex calculations needed to determine range and firing angle between two constantly moving platforms. This “futuristic” technology was unique to United States submarines, allowing for more accurate firing from a safe distance, protecting crews from going in close where the mostly surface vessel was vulnerable.

USS Pampanito in San Francisco

Despite the name submarine, World War II boats could only run on batteries when submerged, and the men on board would have trouble surviving more than a day, with limited battery power and carbon dioxide poisoning occurring, even using lithium hydroxide powder to coat the decks. If she needed to submerge quickly, it was almost instantaneous—any men on deck had to get below and secure the hatch within 30 seconds. Unfortunately, the conning tower is closed off to the public, which is where the periscope is, but walking through the control room, with its dramatic red lighting, makes it easy to imagine what it was like.

Along with the impressive record of stopping enemy shipping—submarines were 2% of the Navy and destroyed 55%—Pampanito miraculously saved a group of POWs who had been captured early in the war. The men were being transported as labor, after undergoing heinous treatment building the Burma “Death” railway, when the submarine sank the ship they were imprisoned on. The men had given up hope, when Pampanito returned to the area hunting for intel, and happened to discover that the survivors were friendlies. Frank Farmer, the first to be rescued, stated that as the ship sank, his thought was that he knew they were going to die, but at least they would be free. In a highly unusual mission for a submarine, Pampanito called for assistance, and many of the survivors were brought on board to be cleaned up and returned home safely.

USS Pampanito in San Francisco

Pampanito is cramped quarters, and during the beginning of a patrol, every available space was filled with food supplies, including the showers. Before you think it was romantic being on board, remember that you would be “hot bunking” with multiple people sharing the same bed in constant oppressive heat with terrible hours, and if you pressed the wrong button, everyone could be killed. It wasn’t all bad—submariners were volunteers who passed rigorous training. They wanted to be there, and they were the best at what they did, forming close comradery. The food was amazing, with ice cream, sizzling french fries, and a baker on board who did nothing but make cookies, rolls, and fresh bread for the crew. Most of the men aboard grew up during the Great Depression, and that sort of treatment was a luxury. To this day, having fabulous meals available is a highlight of the submarine service.

If you go on a tour, ask for the audio—relevant clips of interviews and explanatory background of the vessel help put each area in context.

Daily 9:00 a.m. to varying
(Phone 415.775.1943 to find out when it closes on the day you plan to visit)
Visit the website

SS Jeremiah O’Brien

Jeremiah O’Brien has been a fixture in San Francisco bay for as long as I can remember. During the 1940s, the harbor was a hubbub of activity for the war effort, with liberty ships being churned out in massive assembly lines from Richmond. Mare Island Naval Shipyard in Vallejo was at its peak, with constant traffic going through for research, repair and shipbuilding. With veterans from World War II becoming difficult to find, their stories are fading; being able to go aboard and see what life was like in a tactile way is not only exciting, but imperative to preserve their history.

Still in operating condition, Jeremiah O’Brien, affectionately known as “Jerry,” still goes on tours of the bay—from relaxing afternoon cruises with wine tasting to an up close view of the famous Fleet Week, when modern US Navy ships arrive in the bay along with an air show from the Blue Angels. She was launched in 1943 and carried supplies and troops during the war, until joining the Reserve Fleet in Suisun Bay, where she languished until 1979, when volunteers saved her from being scrapped.

After being lovingly restored, she was able to participate in the 50th Anniversary of D-Day. Currently she is the only operational liberty ship in its original state, and clambering aboard is quite an experience—a tribute to the those who built and maintained her. Be sure to visit the engine room on Steaming Weekends to see her in action, but it does get loud!

Daily 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.
Visit the website

Where to Eat

Bistro Boudin in San Francisco

Being right next to Pier 39 means that the options are wide open, from budget friendly, albeit dodgy, roadside grills to gourmet dining. I prefer getting away from the crowds, which can be over-the-top even during the off season. If you can wade your way through the lower area and past the baking demonstration windows, I recommend Bistro Boudin. Walk up the staircase, following signs to their museum, and concierge will take it from there.

The bistro has a wide, open floor plan with sleek design and an industrial flare. Unlike the mayhem below, their elegant seating tends to be quieter, with a spectacular view of the bay, including Pier 45. Their menu is primarily seafood, as to be expected, with a wine list of local favorites that pair well with the offered dishes. They have a wide range of cocktails available, also leaning toward signatures that are light and refreshing with fish, like the Moscow Mule. I was impressed not only with the level of service, but presentation and taste. The bread provided as appetizer is delicious, and they offer an annual bread club that is rather like a wine club, only each month you receive a specially baked loaf.

Daily 11:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m.
(Will vary during Fleet Week)
Visit the website

Visiting Pier 45 is an educational and intriguing experience, with plenty to do in the surrounding area. If you do plan on visiting, try to arrive before 8:30am in order to find parking, otherwise take public transit. Don’t be in a hurry when you leave—it can take awhile to ease your way out through the traffic.

Exclusion: The Presidio's Role in WWII Japanese American Incarceration

The Presidio and Executive Order 9066

By Alexa Chipman May 9, 2017

Shortly after the attack on Pearl Harbor, which brought America into World War II, President Franklin D. Roosevelt signed an executive order that gave near carte blanche power to remove undesirable persons. It was Lieutenant General John L. DeWitt at the Presidio in San Francisco who translated his general command into the specific incarceration of 120,000 men, women and children of Japanese ancestry, who were forcibly relocated into camps, despite most of them being citizens. The overwhelming antagonistic sentiment drowned out protests, and began a dark chapter in American history.

Exclusion: The Presidio's Role in WWII Japanese American Incarceration

The exhibit “Exclusion: The Presidio’s Role in WWII Japanese American Incarceration” faces this era with a challenging installation at the Officer’s Club. Opening with a timeline of immigration laws reflecting growing anti-Japanese legislation and ending well after World War II, it sets the stage for a noir style exhibit of dark walls punctuated by reproduction posters of instructions that were placed throughout the West Coast explaining where those of Japanese ancestry had to present themselves.

A desk similar to the one DeWitt used when he chose to implement the incarceration dominates the room, opposite a translucent window for viewing the corridor outside, covered with thousands of names from those affected by the general’s decision. This small, powerful exhibit will be available through March, 2018.

Officer’s Club Hours:
10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. (Closed Mondays)
Visit the website

Where to Eat

After perusing the museum, wander downstairs to Arguello, the Presidio Officer’s Club restaurant. Its elegantly presented Mexican fare is delicious, especially the tacos. The mixologist is phenomenal, with seasonal artisan cocktails or traditional margarita pitchers for a refreshing accompaniment. There is outdoor seating if the weather is agreeable, and if you are there in spring, the Presidio is carpeted with flowers. For dessert, try their freshly made churros dipped in chocolate.

Arguello Restaurant - Presidio San Francisco

If you’re keeping an eye on the budget, The Walt Disney Family Museum is around the corner with salads and sandwiches. Their half salads are quite generous, I would recommend the tuna which is heaped with fresh greens, fish and tomatoes.

If you are craving a coffee pick-me-up or quick snack, try the Transit Café on the opposite end of the parade grounds by the Visitor Center.

The Presidio - San Francisco

Events at the Presidio

As the largest urban national park, it is a vibrant community with arts events, lectures, night life at the Commissary Restaurant, book club and screenings. During the summer, stop by on Sundays from 11:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. for the Presidio Picnic and enjoy gourmet food trucks, games and yoga on the lawn. Visit the Presidio website for upcoming activities.

If you are feeling adventurous, the Presidio has 24 miles of hiking trails through tranquil woods and a campground on Rob Hill to stay overnight—the only one in San Francisco.

Structured Elegance in Japanese Gardens

By Alexa Chipman Apr. 15, 2017

Rippling koi ponds filled with colorful fish, dramatic arched bridges, carefully tended shrubbery, pristine gravel gardens and bright blossoms come to mind with Japanese gardens. There is a sense of peace when strolling through the green paradise, mingling formal planning with the wild beauty of a natural forest.

I’ve spent hours sitting on a small bench nestled in a quiet corner, reading or gazing out at what comes close to perfection. Even when crowded and filled with screaming, exhausted children, somehow these gardens manage to overcome the cacophony to maintain their serenity and bestow it on visitors.

Portland Japanese Garden

Portland Japanese Garden Photo by Michel Hersen
Photo by Michel Hersen

Spreading across hills overlooking the bustling metropolis, the Portland Japanese Garden is designed in different styles through winding pathways. What I am drawn to are the Strolling Pond Garden (chisen kaiyu shiki teien) and Natural Garden (zoki no niwa) that meander between ponds, through a zig-zag walkway of iris, past an impressive waterfall cascading down a cliff, and into the tranquil Lower Pond. On a tour, I heard that it reflects a person’s life—starting quietly, becoming a small, energetic stream, widening to a rushing torrent, then slowing in old age to become a peaceful surface of water.

Other garden areas include a Flat Garden with clipped trees and bushes, the Sand and Stone Garden of raked gravel, reflective Tea Garden with sweeping bridge and building for the ceremony, Entry Garden through a mix of native plants and Japanese maples, and Courtyard Garden.

In addition to enjoying the natural beauty, they host a variety of lectures, demonstrations, and activities surrounding Japanese culture. The gardens have been active since 1963, and currently serve 356,000 visitors per year, cultivated by a staff of 83 employees. I would highly recommend taking the time for a visit if you are in the Portland area.

Summer Hours (3/13-9/30):
Monday 12:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m. Tuesday – Sunday 10:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.
Winter Hours (10/1-3/12): Monday 12:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. Tuesday – Sunday 10:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m.
Location: 611 SW Kingston Ave, Portland, OR

Missouri Botanical Garden: Japanese Garden

Missouri Botanical Garden Japanese Garden Zen

Completely different from the clustered, delicately designed Portland garden is the Japanese garden St. Louis, Missouri. When I first saw it, I was unimpressed by its sprawling, wide layout, but over time I came to appreciate the airy, open feeling. It is like a breath of fresh air without crowding the plants on top of each other, and quite a walk to go all the way around the lake it surrounds.

Watching it change over the course of seasons is delightful—from cheerful spring colors to a wash of autumnal glory, and twinkling snow during winter. I was intrigued by the domed ice structures caused when water froze in the stone basins, creating chilled sculptural patterns. A heater is turned on when temperatures freeze, to keep the koi comfortable, and there is a station on one side of the lake where you can purchase a handful of fish food that is quite popular with the younger visitors.

Although there is no formal tea room, you can purchase food while inside the garden. Because there are multiple cultural and botanical wonders, explore the Chinese garden that is nearby, along with a variety of other features, including a Victorian mansion, glass enclosed climate controlled jungle, and other beautiful landscapes. October is one of the best times of year to visit the Japanese garden area, due to the vibrant colors.

Daily 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
Location: 4344 Shaw Blvd, St. Louis, MO

San Francisco Japanese Tea Garden

San Francisco Japanese Garden

Originally created as an exhibit in 1894 for the California Midwinter International Exposition, this treasure of a tiny garden was maintained by Makoto Hagiwara until he was forcibly removed during the internment of Japanese Californians into concentration camps during WWII. Fortunately, anti-Japanese sentiment on the West Coast did not permanently close this monument, and it currently thrives as a destination in Golden Gate Park, surrounded by blossoming cherry trees and throngs of visitors waiting for a glimpse inside.

Although there is an active tea house, it is nearly impossible to get a seat—be prepared to wait, and try arriving at an unusual time for a meal. They serve light dishes such as miso soup, tea sandwiches, kuzumochi (sweet rice cakes in refreshing flavors), and dorayaki (red bean filled savory cake).

This is the Portland Japanese Garden in miniature, with a popular arched drum bridge to clamber over for those unafraid of heights, and red pagodas towering over an array of flowers, graceful trees, and ponds. If you visit, even during the winter, it will be packed with tourists; this is not a garden to meditate in, unless you don’t mind being surrounded by toddlers, giggling selfie groups, and a constant lineup of family photos. There is a discount entry fee if you live in San Francisco. Parking can be difficult—follow signs for the Music Concourse / California Academy of Sciences parking garage if the street is full.

Summer Hours (3/1-10/31):
Daily 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
Winter Hours (11/1-2/28): Daily 9:00 a.m. to 4:45 p.m.
Location: 75 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive, San Francisco, CA